Sunday, August 21, 2011

The Lost City Of Machu Picchu: 100 Years Later


Peru is celebrating the 100th anniversary of the discovery of Machu Picchu this year. It seems strange to celebrate the 100th anniversary of pre-Columbian ruins but we have to keep in mind it is the rediscovery by Yale University’s Hiram Bingham. The ruins of the city stand at just under 8000 feet above sea level in a tropical mountain forest. I visited the majestic city of the Incas two years ago.

The ruins are impressive. They are breathtaking. Overwhelming. Words really do not describe the feelings the structure evoke in a person.


Experts debate what purpose the buildings served. Many claim they served as a retreat and sanctuary away from the capital city of Cusco. You can read Bingham’s work  “Explorations in the Highlands of Peru” as a free download from Project Gutenberg (www.gutenberg.org).
Most people daytrip from Cusco (as opposed to the nearby Aguas Calientes or the extremely, extremely expensive hotel on the sanctuary). It is a three hour trip each way from Cusco on the train and later a short bus ride. Some people hike the 43 kilometer Inca trail from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu. I did not. The train is an incredible experience. You are descending from the nauseatingly (in my opinion) high altitude of Cusco.


I believe that Machu Picchu is a once in a lifetime experience. It is something you will never forget. It is expensive. From Lima you should plan on spending $500 per person for transportation and hotel. This does not include food, additional tours in the valley or additional excursions.




An interesting note: The Spanish conquerors never found Machu Picchu; so Spanish writing never mention the site. You will never forget a visit to the overwhelming and breathtaking ruins of the Incas. It almost sounds trite to say this, but it is true: This is one of the most mystical and intriguing places on the planet.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

A Visit To Cusco: Capital of the Incas


Just the name Cusco conjures up images of mysticism and unknown wonders. Cusco was the capital of the Incan Empire when the Spanish arrived in the 1500s. You can see buildings which were constructed by the Incan Empire and the built upon by the Spanish. Very often in Latin America the Spanish conquerors would merely take a local building or site and make it their own. That is why you can literally see colonial buildings on top of indigenous construction.

From Lima to Cusco roundtrip airfaire costs about $200. You can travel slightly cheaper on a bus but it takes about 24 hours each way. Cusco is known as an expensive city in Peru. Tourism brings higher prices.
According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cusco Cusco’s elevation is at 3,400 meters (11, 200 feet). Let me tell you from personal experience…I felt every bit of the altitude. That is why locals will offer you coca leaves to chew or in a tea to drink. This is a local remedy to help with altitude sickness.


I was dizzy for a couple of days but then my body rebounded. There is so much to see in Cusco and the surrounding Sacred Valley. You will find most tourists and tourist-oriented business in the Plaza de Armas and central part of Cusco.


This is a great city for walking but it is steep and many of the streets are made of stones. So, walking can be a little difficult. Many local residents will pose for photos but you will be expected to tip them. 

Tourism is the driving force behind the economy here and Cusco will not let you forget it. I mean this in both positive and negative aspects. For better or for worse you will also feel like a tourist and often in prepackaged experiences manufactured for you.

Cusco is also the starting point for a trek (3 days on foot or 3 hours on a train/bus combo) to Machu Picchu. Cusco lived up to its storybook images. It is difficult and expensive but worth the visit.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Design For Social Change


I believe in social change through communication, design and art. That is why I want to use my small place on the web to help some friends who are developing Peru´s first International Art & Design Graphic Conference with the focus that design can be an agent of change. These folks are my friends and colleagues at the Universidad San Ignacio in La Molina, Lima. 

Not only do I want to help publicize something for my friends, I would like to help promote art and design as ways in which we can change the world for the better.
The department head of Art & Graphic Design, Rita Vida, and the department´s program coordinator, Rafael Vivanco, have teamed up to bring together artists and designers from 9 countries(ranging from Lebanon to Germany to Brasil)  to provide seminars and workshops on the topic in the Lima suburb of La Molina on the USIL campus.

All the events take place September 14-16, 2011. If you are interested in attending the symposiums or any of the workshops you can check them out online at www.ade-usil.com or call (in Peru) 317-1000 extension 3250 or 3251. Prices for the workshops start at 30 soles.

I am not very gifted as an artist, but I do appreciate the communicative power of artistic work. I plan to stop by and take part if they will let me. If you don´t speak Spanish don´t worry many of the organizers and participants speak English and other languages.

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Polvos Azules: If you want it they got it


Polvos Azules roughly translate as blue dust o blue powder. I don’t know why it has that name and I don’t care. This place rocks…trust me. I don't like to shop but shopping here is fun...and slightly sketchy. You feel like you are in one of those movies where some kid comes up to you saying "Mister I got what you want" He has no idea what you want but he does probably have it.







You will think you have died and gone to counterfeit heaven. It is the market in Lima where anything is possible. My favorite items to purchase in the market are CDs, movies and TV shows. The prices are cheap and the selection is wide. 

You can buy a CD with 200 plus songs in MP3 format for $0.90 and each Movie or TV Show will cost slightly more than $1 per disc (A season of a TV show will have multiple discs). They really do have almost everything. I have very rarely asked for an artist or show that they don’t have. If they don’t have it…they will find it for you.

You can buy “designer” clothes and handbags and name brand shoes that cost a fraction of the price of the real thing.

I do warn you about the video games and the Rosetta Stone programs…so far no luck in making those work. It is a shame too…as you can buy all five levels of a language in Rosetta Stone for 30 soles (about $11). I will keep asking about those programs.
Here you can also buy computer equipment, fix a watch or unlock a cellphone. You can really get almost anything in this market.
Some people will tell you that Polvos Azules is dangerous. I would not say that. I do think you should watch your valuables and not flash your money or phones.

The market is on the Via Expresa near downtown Lima. All the taxi drivers know how to get there. 

Good luck and happy shopping!

Friday, July 29, 2011

Day Two of Peruvian Independence Celebrations: The Parade Route


Today was the second day of the Independence celebration in Peru. As I stated before I was surprised there were two days of celebrations for Peruvian Independence Day…but I guess it is worth it.
The official military parade celebrating Peruvian Independence Day wound its way through the city today.  I watched the parade on TV today instead of braving the crowds to see the various branches of the military on parade.

I did make it to the Plaza de Armas (main square) in central Lima just before the Presidential procession moved through. The police were on full guard in downtown as newly elected (and controversial) President Ollanta Humala wound through the streets to take his place at the Presidential Palace.



I am getting to know my new country and being here for the Peruvian Independence Day(s) makes me feel just a little more like I belong in Lima.

¡Arriba Peru!

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Felices fiestas patrias from Peru: Independence day in my new country


Happy July 28th from Lima, Peru! For those of you who don’t know…today is Peruvian Independence Day.

I am in the process of receiving my carnet de extranjería (foreign residency card) so I wanted to meander around Lima and figure out where and how I might belong in my new country.

Red & white flags fly over the country. Apparently today is the official holiday yet tomorrow we will see the parades downtown. I constantly get confused about the date because both the 28th and 29th are holidays. I guess Peruvian independence is so much fun you need to take two days to celebrate.


I also noticed today online that U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton issued a statement of support to the people of Peru as they celebrate. I think her message about the anniversary of Machu Picchu and the friendship between our countries is a good one. I appreciate that kind of diplomacy coming from the US government.

For my own less dramatic and formal commemoration I took a walk around the Miraflores and Barranco neighborhoods with friends who are visiting the Peru. The central park, Kennedy Park, in Miraflores is full of vendors and special exhibits commemorating the country’s heritage.
I also noticed a separate area where there was a temporary indigenous craft market across from the park.

The indigenous faces, the white European, Asian immigrants and a variety of others physical types form the unique cultural, racial and linguistic heritage which constitutes modern-day Peru.

To celebrate Peruvian Independence Day I did take time to eat one of the countr’s typical dishes…anticucho (beef heart on a stick). 

It is not my favorite dish but it did bring me a little closer to feeling that I belong in my new country.
¡Arriba Perú!

Monday, July 25, 2011

The White City in the Sand

Arequipa lies in the southern section of Peru. This is Peru's second-largest city...some estimates place the population at near 900 thousand in the metro area.






Arequipa is a colonial city with lots of typical tourist attractions. Stone roads, white volcanic "sillar" buildings and a frenzy of activity make this a bustling tourist center in the south of Peru.






Arequipa is a good place to buy traditional crafts and wool/llama products.


When you want to travel around the city you will find multitudes of tiny cabs...all with some sort of advertising sticking from their roof.



If you visit Arequipa I strongly recommend you taste some of the local specialties. My favorite was the stuffed peppers "rocoto relleno".



Arequipa is a mere 1:20 plane ride from Lima or a 15 hour bus ride on the very comfortable Cruz de Sur.

-- Desde Mi iPhone

Ubicación:Aviación,Arequipa,Perú